Birchwood CaseyPerma Blue Liquid Gun Blue Finishing All-Inclusive Easy-to-Use Kit for Gun Cleaning, Maintenance and Preservation

Muy buen precio y súper bueno

Haven't use it yet but i use the marker to fix minor scratches on my firearm. I going to look at a YouTube tutorial to figure out how to properly apply this to my firearms when in need to fix any scratches or abrasions.

I recently used the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue, and it exceeded my expectations. Here’s my detailed review:Pros:- Easy to Use: The application process is straightforward, even for someone without much experience. The instructions are clear, and the whole process from cleaning to bluing took about an hour.- Excellent Results: The finish is deep, rich, and uniform. It gave my firearm a professional-looking blue-black finish that significantly enhanced its appearance. The coverage is smooth, with no streaks or blotches.- Durability: After applying the Perma Blue, I noticed that the finish is quite durable. It stands up well to handling and use, showing no signs of wear or chipping after several weeks of use.- Cost-Effective: This product offers great value for the price. A little goes a long way, and I was able to complete the bluing of an entire rifle with plenty left over for future touch-ups or other projects.- Versatility: While it’s designed for firearms, the Perma Blue can also be used on other metal items that need a durable, attractive finish. I’ve used it on some old tools and knife blades with equally good results.Cons:- Strong Odor: The only minor downside is the strong chemical smell during application. It’s important to use it in a well-ventilated area or outdoors to avoid inhaling fumes.Conclusion:Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue is an outstanding product that delivers professional-quality results at a fraction of the cost. Its ease of use, excellent finish, and durability make it a top choice for anyone looking to blue their firearms or other metal items.Overall, I rate this product 5 stars. It’s a must-have for anyone needing a reliable and effective bluing solution.

The swabs are awful for working on large pieces if you're wanting an even blue finish, so if you are blueing blades, I suggest you have a puffy microfiber towel used for automotive maintenance instead of the little swabs, because this blue chemical acts real fast, meaning you want to apply it all at once which isn't really possible. In general, I thought the instructions complicated some steps while not being descriptive enough on other steps. I ended up watching people use this stuff on YouTube to get a better idea how it works since I never used it before.Despite nearly getting a disastrously uneven finish on my Musashi katana, I think the results are rather beautiful and achieved close enough to my goal of making my sword become blue, as it is blue depending on the light angle and intensity. I don't feel the need to upload a ton of pictures of my sword and bushcraft knives, but I upload one image of my sword to show you, which is after I used metallic markers and sword oil to coat the blade. I know some people find it taboo to treat the handle section but I really don't care about letting my handle rust in order to prove its age, so that too was blued, colored, and very lightly oiled. My knives are made by Marttiini and Morakniv, and Birchwood Casey only works on stainable high carbon steel, but I did try some on my stainless steel knives just to see but nothing happened. The blueing is way better than using vinegar patina because the vinegar patina rubs off with little use, although this blue stain will do the same over use of course as you wear down the steel, but the blue holds on much longer. I didn't try blueing a pre-existing mustard pattern so I can't comment if overlapping will remove underlying designs.The chemicals seemed to work good enough but I wasn't really that impressed with them, especially considering how expensive this stuff is, but it was the only practical option I could find for cold blueing. So take note sword owners, be sure you thoroughly clean your blade with degreasers and distilled water (my shower has a water filter so you don't really need distilled for cleaning, but I used a distilled water bath as a bath stop using the shipping box and a plastic painter's tarp) and get your self a puffy fluffy towel to apply the blue in one big fast sweep across your sword. I had some sections of my sword not blue as fast, with a few stubborn spots, so I had to sweep, sweep, and scrub a few minor points. I ended up being happy with the end result though as my sword has an even enough finish. The angle in my picture shows a blue hamon and blackish side and spine, but light from the other angle makes the hamon look reddish and the blade as blueish. Overall, it's a bit like a combining a brown base with a chromatic spectrum reflection, but it tends to show enough of blues and teals for my liking. It's a nice blue patina that looks very appropriate on a sword.

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